Skip to main content

Simple goal:

Flash CANable 1.0 slcan firmware → connect → start sniffing frames.

Instead, I spent hours fighting firmware errors that made it look like the device was bricked.

It wasn’t.

The problem was USB 3.0.


The Setup

  • OS: Windows 11

  • Laptop: Alienware M18 (USB 3.0 ports only)

  • Hardware: CANable-compatible USB-to-CAN adapter

  • Flash Method: Web DFU flasher (https://canable.io/)

  • Secondary Tool: STM32CubeProgrammer


The Symptoms

When I flipped the BOOT switch into DFU mode:

  • Device appeared correctly

  • Web flasher connected

  • DFU erase took forever

  • Firmware upload never completed

Switching to STM32CubeProgrammer didn’t help.

It repeatedly reported behavior consistent with readout protection, which made me think:

  • The chip was locked

  • The clone was defective

  • I had corrupted something

I reinstalled drivers.
Swapped cables.
Changed tools.

Same result every time.


The Real Root Cause

Every port on my laptop is USB 3.0.

Certain USB 3.0 host controllers do not behave well with some low-speed USB 2.0 devices — especially when those devices enter DFU firmware mode.

During erase/write cycles, timing becomes sensitive.
USB 3.0 controllers can introduce subtle communication instability.

That instability looks exactly like:

  • Firmware corruption

  • Readout protection

  • Bricked hardware

But it isn’t.


The Fix

I plugged the adapter into an old USB 2.0 hub (left over from a project with the Raspberry Pi Foundation).

Then plugged the hub into my laptop.

Immediately:

  • DFU erase completed normally

  • Firmware flashed successfully

  • Device rebooted correctly

  • SavvyCAN connected and logged frames

Zero errors.

Technical Breakdown

If you encounter firmware flashing failures on STM32-based USB devices:

  1. Test through a USB 2.0 hub

  2. Avoid direct USB 3.0 connections

  3. Verify stable DFU enumeration

  4. Rule out host-controller compatibility before assuming firmware issues

Low-cost CANable-style adapters are especially sensitive to USB controller differences.


Final Takeaway

Before you assume:

  • You bought a bad clone

  • The firmware is corrupted

  • The chip is locked

  • The drivers are broken

Try a USB 2.0 hub.

Sometimes the fix isn’t firmware.
It’s just USB 3.0 being USB 3.0.